It's Enis' 45th birthday today! Peter and I were able to give him a card, and I made bread pudding for breakfast, the closest I could get to any kind of cake with the supplies on board. We could not celebrate tonight because Enis has left us! At Lock 3 of the canal, he disembarked to catch a bus to Glasgow, where he will spend the night before flying to Zagreb, Croatia, on Thursday to spend time with his mother, brother and other relatives before returning to his home in Pompano Beach, Florida. Having him on board for three months was delightful, and we will miss his company and his crewmanship.
Yesterday we were busy going in and out of locks along the Crinan Canal from late morning to late afternoon, transiting through 10 of the 15 locks and past 5 swing bridges. It was all hands on deck most of the time. I had a bowl of cereal and the guys had granola bars for breakfast. In retrospect, we should have eaten a more substantial meal, because there was no time to make or consume lunch during the day. We finally had quesadillas at 5 p.m.!
It was cloudy, but there was no rain yesterday, although the humidity was high, and the temperature was in the 50s (Fahrenheit). Any wind was blocked by the levees around the canal and the hand-hewn stone walls of locks. It was not a bad day to be outside!
 |
| The cafe by the Crinan basis (And who is using the red phone booths we see everywhere?) |
 |
| Enis handling the bow line and dressed for warmer weather |
Scottish Canals provides staff at all the locks and bridges, so there is no need to get off the boat. However, there was some waiting time between locks as the staff was usually working more than one of them, walking, bicycling or driving to meet us at the next lock. On board, Peter steered the boat and threw the stern line to the lock keepers, Enis manned the bowline and I had the giant orange-red fender which we found in Iceland to use in addition to the old cloth covered ones which were tied on to stanchions. Fortunately, the navy blue covers for the white fenders were already tattered, because they were abused on the rough walls of the lock.
 |
| Going around a curve in the canal |
 |
| Peter at the helm |
 |
| Typical home beside the canal |
 |
| Tannin stained water flooding a lock |
 |
| An uphill lock opening |
 |
| Two lock keepers waiting for the water to rise |
At one lock, the lock keeper asked for a crew member to come to shore to help with operations. Eagerly, Enis volunteered. Peter and I had operated locks previously while visiting our friends Paula and Andrew on their canal boat in England a few years ago, but it was a novel and unique experience for Enis, who discovered just how much strength it took to open and close the locks manually. The lock keepers put their backs into it, literally leaning their backs against the balance beam and walking backwards. Of course, Enis was delighted to try something new.
 |
| Enis trying to move a balance beam while Peter adjusts the big fender |
 |
| Enis starting to put his back into the work |
 |
| Enis being helped by the lock keeper |
 |
| Sherri and Peter on Mantra in a lock |
 |
| Enis cranking the gate to allow water to flow |
After passing the Oakfield Bridge, we tied up at a pontoon for the night. As darkness descended, Peter and Enis went off for a walk into the village of Lochgilphead. I had been up until 2:30 the previous evening in order to attend the monthly Rodgers' family book club meeting on Zoom, so I was tired and just wanted to rest. Over an hour later, having sampled some Jura whiskey, they returned with fish and chips for them and macaroni and cheese and fried mushrooms for me. Since it was Enis' last evening with us, we played both three-handed pinochle and Take 5 before bedtime. Enis told us that he had never played card games as an adult, and he has grown to like doing so.
 |
| Enis, Sherri and Peter on land while waiting for the lock keepers to arrive this morning |
 |
| Peter moving a lock's balance beam |
Peter and I successfully made it through the last couple locks, although the lock keepers did not seem to have as much expertise as the previous ones. After passing through the sea gate, we tied up at the pontoon outside and had lunch.
 |
| The last lock before the sea gate at Ardrishaig |
 |
| Ready to exit Crinan Canal into Lower Loch Fyne |
Peter has finalized arrangements for meeting up with his brother Rob and sister-in-law Susan, who will pick us up tomorrow at Holy Loch Marina in Dunoon. They are on their way to spend the weekend with friends of all of us, Catherine and John Hartz, at their hunting estate, and we will visit just on Thursday.
On Friday, we want to be on our boat at the marina as the UK national meteorological service's first named storm of the season, Amy, is predicted to hit the northern part of the United Kingdom starting at noon that day, with 25-30 knot winds with gusts up to 55. We will need to monitor our dock lines and make sure nothing is likely to be blown away. Right now we are rounding Ardlamont Point and heading into the Kyles of Bute. We will anchor somewhere along the northern side of Bute for the night.
