On Our Way to Greenland

At 8 a.m. Friday, August 1, we finally set off for Greenland from St. Anthony, Newfoundland. For about ten hours, we sailed north along the southeast coast of Labrador to avoid the Labrador Current. (Politically, Newfoundland and Labrador are one province, but geographically, Newfoundland is an island southeast of Labrador, which is part of mainland Canada, across the Strait of Belle Isle.) Since late afternoon yesterday, we have been motoring because the wind has been below ten knots. Peter has already changed the hand warmers by the lower bearing of the rudder a couple times, and they seem to work well at keeping the rudder free to move, but he has added a small space heater to the aft lazarette just to be sure.

When there aren't things to see close up, we pass the time with various activities. Peter thinks about various things on the boats and does some work; Enis does some remote work and fishes; I read or color; or we play games together.

Enis fishing of the stern

Enis with a tangled line

Closer photo of the tangled line, which Enis successfully untangled

This trip so far has been all about the natural environment around us: icebergs; acrobatic white-beaked dolphins; and various species of birds, including petrels, gannets and gulls. 

Northern gannets (and an iceberg in the distance on the right)

The first icebergs appeared in the Strait of Belle Isle. The brilliant sunshine creates dazzling patterns on the gleaming surface and lights up the bergs so that they are visible from miles away. The sea has had swells but no waves, so the surface is smooth and it is easy to approach the icebergs fearlessly (or foolishly). Where the ice continues out from what can be seen above the ocean, the water is turquoise and luminous. We have been able to get close enough to see the different erosion patterns on the freshwater ice from far-away glaciers. The waves have carved valleys and spires and sometimes undercut the iceberg at the water level. Vertical cracks show where the berg is likely to crack soon, and the horizontal lines where the ice has become thin shine a lighter shade of blue. The smallest one we have been close to had waves washing across it and it was rocking quite energetically; we thought it might flip. 

Iceberg in the Strait of Belle Isle with Belle Isle across the water

Iceberg in the Strait of Belle Isle

Approaching an iceberg along the southeast coast of Labrador

Sherri with three head coverings, four upper layers, two lower layers and a life jacket for being on deck

Same iceberg from another perspective as we circled it

And another angle

And another!

And another!

Iceberg at sunset

Same iceberg, different perspective

First iceberg this morning, of the starboard side

Rocking iceberg

Same iceberg with water rushing out of the center

A few times we have seen dolphins jumping out of the water and spinning through the air. We thought they were spinner dolphins, but book of sea mammals says that spinner dolphins are not found this far north. After a bit of studying, I was able to determine that what we are seeing are white-beaked dolphins, also known for the leaps and twists and for their curiosity. 

White-beaked dolphin at sunset

Dolphin leaping in front of the bow

In this case, truly, the pictures are better than words.