And Still in Aappilattaq

The wind is now hovering at or below 20 knots most of the time here, so it is possible, given conditions outside this sheltered cove, that we may depart later today. We need something other than headwinds to move west to east through Prins Christian Sund. A important factor is Hurricane Erin, which will be bringing wind and high seas to the area between Greenland and Iceland early next week. We expect, however, to be able to move up the east coast of Greenland soon after we transit the sound. The weather forecasts change seemingly from hour to hour, so discussions about moving on occur several times a day.

Yesterday afternoon, around 4:45, with X-Trip rafted up on our starboard side, we spotted the large supply ship from Svendborg, Denmark, Arpaarti Arctica, coming through the narrow gap between the mountains into this tiny harbor. By 5 p.m., she was tied up to the wharf with only a bow line. With 35 meters (115 feet) in length and 10 meters (33 feet) at the beam, it would be impossible for her to pull up alongside. 

The supply ship coming through the narrow entry, with Michael and Peter ready to move as one

Arpaarti Artica offloading supplies on the dock. The little road on the left leads to the general store, the red building behind the blue fish processing plant on the wharf.

The forklift returning for another load

The bright red and white vessel used its own crane to carry pallets of goods from the hold. The store's forklift picked them up and carried them the short distance to the Pilersuisoq store. We have found one in every town of more than 80 people. Pilersuisoq is a chain of all-purpose general stores in Greenland and are a division of the state-owned KNI or Greenland Trade. This conglomerate is a successor to the Royal Greenland Trading Department, which controlled the government of Greenland itself from 1774 to 1908 and possessed a monopoly on Greenlandic trade from 1776 to 1950. The company remains a major component of Greenland's economy.

After all the cargo for the town had been unloaded. eight large bags of recyclable cans and bottles on pallets were lifted by the ship's crane into its hold. These can be monetized, unlike the trash, which was not loaded. We still wondered where it all goes.

Forklift with another load going up the small hill while the recyclables wait to be put on the ship

The captain of the ship had radioed that it would be at the dock for 30 minutes, but as we watched the unloading and loading, it seemed like more time passed. However, looking at the time stamps on my digital photos, it indeed took just 30 minutes, almost exactly. We watched the large vessel cast off from the wharf. The captain did an amazing job of backing out and turning in the narrow space.

The supply boat loading recyclables

Peter as the supply ship backs out of the harbor

It had just finished turning and was motoring away when we heard the buzz of helicopter blades. A yellow and blue helicopter landed on the small landing area just to starboard of where we are anchored. Earlier, a small boat had come to Aappilattaq at speed, running into X-Trip while she was still tied up to the wharf and breaking a stanchion. A nurse had arrived for an emergency visit and crossed over Michael's boat to reach the land. We assume that the helicopter came to pick up the patient and the nurse.

Helicopter alighting on the town's small landing pad

Michael was on board the rest of the afternoon, which passed with hot drinks, snacks and lively story-telling. Michael showed us the bear tooth he wears as a necklace under his shirt, the bear claw he keeps in his pocket and the two-headed tupilaq (an avenging monster in the Greenlandic Inuit religion) made of narwal tusk that he also keeps with him always. He has the rib of a large whale and he went to his vessel and retrieved the tooth of a sperm whale which he had picked up on a beach around Scoresby Sound.

Michael, Enis, Shalako and Peter in our pilot house

The sperm whale tooth beside Enis' hand

We stayed rafted up for the night, which actually makes both of our boats less reactive to the wind. In the morning, just after the time the store opened at 9 a.m., Enis, Shalako and I dinghied to the dock, wondering if the shelves in the general store had been stocked from the previous day's delivery. To our surprise, they had. We bought 20 1-liter cartons of UHT milk, eggs, hard cheese, carrots, more cookies, marmalade, lemons, potato chips, canned corn, lunch meat and a few other items, filling up 3 grocery bags plus the boxes of milk cartons. The total was 1,100 krones, about $172 US. We have used the last of our parmesan cheese and are down to less than 2 pounds of butter, but we feel much better about our provisions now.

Michael had moved back to the wharf and we were discussing how to pull up our two anchors and release the line to shore when Peter noticed a big red and white ship moving past our starboard side. It pulled up beside Michael's boat and told him he needed to cast off. A couple men on shore helped him, and we were back together again. Apparently, the captain had been radioing on VHF channel 08, but neither of us were monitoring that channel.

X-Trip getting ready to leave the wharf again

We all came below for another hot drink. Peter popped up on deck to see what was up, but there was no activity on the wharf. However, we did notice that the ship's flag was totally black. He came below and asked if any of us knew what a black flag signified. I Googled it and read that it would indicate that the ship was carrying hazardous material. We assumed that it had come to take away the large bags of trash, a hundred or more scattered throughout town. 

Peter watching the ship

An hour later, I went up to see what was happening. There were two bags of trash on the dock. I looked carefully at the black flag and discerned that it was, in fact, the Greenland flag blackened by belching diesel exhaust. It did not seem that the boat would be moving soon.

Atitooq flying a blackened Greenland flag

Two bags of trash on the wharf at 2:00

With less than a dozen large trash bags on the wharf, Michael, Enis and Peter dinghied over to make inquiries around 3:45 p.m.. Shalako and I played a couple games of backgammon, with him beating me again. 

A few more bags of trash about two hours later

The shore crew

Another bag being brought down

Then, we were hailed on the radio by S/V Bonny, another member of the Ocean Cruising Club (OCC) whom we have been in contact with the organization's WhatsApp. They wanted to know if there was room for them and what the conditions were like. I provided them all the information I could and told them that although it was tight, they could raft up on our port side. They were still considering their options when the dinghy crew returned. Peter continued the communication with them, and they decided to come in. By 5:30, we were three!

S/V Bonny coming into Aappilattaq

X-Trip, Mantra and Bonny rafted up

Tom, Bonny's owner and his friend George, both Brits, came on board after they had taken a line to shore, and Michael joined us also. It was time for hot drinks again! 

Meanwhile, we kept monitoring Atitooq. The shore crew had discovered that they did plan to remove trash, but they also have to remove one of two diesel storage tanks on the opposite shore because it is rusted inside. This requires the ship running right up to the rocky coastline and unloading heavy machinery to level an area so the crane that the ship carries can go ashore and lift the big orange tank. We had all been down below and missed the ship maneuvering onto the shore, but we have been able to the backhoe level a space for the crane. The last time we looked, the backhoe was still at work but the ship was back on the wharf. 

Preparations for removing the inner diesel tank

It has been another interesting day here in Aappilattaq. We definitely plan to leave in the morning, not attached to the other two boats but probably all leaving about the same time.

Still in Aappilattaq

The blustery wind is still howling at 20 knots or more, but the gusts are down to 25 and it is sunny and relatively warm, so we plan to leave later this afternoon, even though we know the wind may be stronger away from this remote town. I have done the most thorough cleaning of the boat that has been done since we were in Canada. The three men returned to the grocery store to get 3 more loaves of freshly baked bread, some pastries for breakfast, another package of grapes that need to be eaten today, and soft but green bananas. It's no longer a matter of going to the store to get what you need; it's go to the store and purchase what you can find. But we will not wait for the supply boat which is expected to arrive at 7 p.m. this evening because we do not expect a much better selection.

Using our one water jerry can, one borrowed from Michael on X-Trip, and two borrowed from someone in town, the men have been ferrying back and forth between our boat and the dock with fresh water from one of the town's spigots. We have collected about 100 gallons, so we feel better about our water supply. We now have 300 gallons. With other provisions running low, we may eventually be living on bread and water!

Peter rigging a lifting system

Enis and Peter raising a jerry can

Pouring in the water

The sun also made an appearance for a few hours yesterday afternoon. Peter, Enis and I went to town before 3 p.m. with the main purpose of getting a 6 kilo can of liquid propane at the store. There were more tortillas available, so we bought those along with a head of cabbage and pastries for afternoon tea. 

Then we took a walk through most of the town and to the other side of the small peninsula on which it is situated where we observed 3-4 foot waves on the fjord racing across the surface and crashing on the rocky coastline. 

Enis and Peter by the fjord

Wind producing waves on the water and causing the grasses on shore to bend

Waves breaking on the shore

Aappilattaq is surrounded by unglaciated peaks up to 2000 meters high as well as glaciated walls and cirques, with glaciers as well as winter snow still clinging to the steep slopes. Patches of wildflowers brighten the open areas between buildings, and most of the houses are brightly painted, although some could use a new coat. As in other towns, the Lutheran church and school buildings are well-maintained and are the center of the community. 

View in town

The church

Peter walking by an unpainted buildings and tundra wildflowers

One of the little blue water access buildings

However, the quaintness of the town and the grandeur of its surroundings is somewhat diminished in terms of scenic appeal by the frequent piles of heavy plastic white trash bags, discarded furniture, tires and outboard motors. There is no indoor plumbing, which means not only that the residents must go to the little blue buildings which house the water supply in all seasons, but that all gray water just comes out pipes from the indoor sinks and tubs onto the ground, and black water from the toilets exits through wide-diameter yellow hoses and goes untreated directly into the marine environment. All the infrastructure of electricity, sewage and other services lie along the exposed rock; there is no way to dig a trench here.

Heavy-duty trash bags dumped at the end of a dirt road

The store, shiny bicycles, trash and colorful houses

Trash, a boat with a large outboard engine and a forklift among the houses

Colorful houses amid wildflowers and a discarded tire

A view of town with a discarded sofa

Most people here seem to be shy around us, although I suspect that is because they have no way to communicate with us foreigners. A few of the kids, all who seem to have shiny new bicycles, do approach us to say "Hi!" and maybe exchange names. One petite older woman started talking and gesturing to Peter while we were in the store, and he thought that she was indicating that there was a coffee and tea shop down the dirt path. (There are no roads or cars, only a few forklifts and other machinery.) We didn't find any building that seemed open for commerce during our perambulation, but then one of the young boys who had introduced himself gestured for us to come into his house. We weren't sure what to do, but another older boy told us that it would be alright. 

Inside the cozy and warm home, there was the woman who had tried to communicate with Peter; she was smoking a cigarette, and Peter thought she might be slightly tipsy. We took off our shoes in the mudroom and walked down the hall to the room containing the kitchen and living area. No one was home other than the grandmother and the boy. The white walls, counter tops and cabinets as well as the engineered floor were immaculately clean. They lit a single candle at the table and the adults sat down. She offered us tea and coffee, which we declined, and hard candies. The boy sat at the small organ and played a few notes. I asked him (without words) to play a song, and he played from the one sheet of music I could see, a hymn in F major, perhaps something similar to "The Old Rugged Cross." 

We noticed that the temperature throughout the entire small house was probably about 20°C (Wonderful!) and the walls, at least 6 inches thick, totally eliminated the roaring of the wind. It was challenging to sit without any means of verbal communication, but the old woman seemed delighted with our company. She brought out a large plastic bag of crowberries, which grow in abundance and everyone collects easily. They are the size of blueberries and slightly darker, with tougher skins and a slightly less sweet taste, but they were a great treat, and she was thrilled that we liked them.

Lasnuka, Katerini, Peter and Enis in a Greenland home

It is time for me to get lunch on the table. Michael has just radioed that the supply boat is expected in an hour, so he is untying from the wharf and coming to raft up with us. Our departure is now tentative because of this and because the sun has disappeared and the wind has not abated.

Stordalen Haven and Aappilattaq, Greenland

On Monday, August 18, at 7:15 p.m., we anchored at Stordalen Haven in 26 meters of water with a north wind at 12-15 knots and sunny skies. An hour later, we had to raise the anchor as it was dragging, and we re-anchored in 40 meters. The scenery around us was, as usual here, spectacular. On most days, it is foggy in the morning, clouds begin to gather in the mid-afternoon and by nightfall, which is around 9:30 p.m. now, there is complete cloud cover. This evening, the skies were clear at sunset, so for the first time in a couple of weeks, we were able to watch the yellow orb hide itself behind the rugged mountains. Unfortunately, complete cloud cover occurred before true darkness, so our hopes to see the Northern Lights were dashed.

Sunset at Stordalen Haven

After sunset but before darkness

Yesterday, we weighed anchor around 8:30 a.m. We have to restrain ourselves from constant photography because everywhere the views are worthy of capturing. Again, we passed through narrow channels and fjords with steep mountains rising from the water, thick glaciers hanging in bowl-shaped cirques, and cataracts gushing over rocks. 

After fighting gusty headwinds of 20-40 knots that kept our boat speed to about 3 knots, at 10 a.m. we arrived at Aappilattaq, a village of about 90 people with the ubiquitous pre-fab-looking houses painted in the same four colors as other towns. Anchoring in this very narrow cove took 2 hours. Finding a suitable spot was, in itself, a challenge. The anchor dragged twice as it scraped away the kelp on the bottom, which is attached tenuously to smooth rock. Once the anchor broke loose, the boat moved quickly in the strong wind, and immediate action was needed to avert a crash landing on the steep and rocky shoreline. Anchoring normally requires only 2 people, but all hands were on deck, with Peter at the wheel, Enis at the bow, Shalako at mid-ships to relay messages because the howling of the wind and the rumble of the engine made it impossible to hear the 56-feet length from stem to stern, and I was on the stern to deploy the second anchor. There is insufficient space for swinging.

Michael, a solo sailor from Iceland whom we met at a previous anchorage, was on the small wharf on his vessel X-Trip, and he paddled over in his kayak to offer assistance. In the end, we dropped a stern anchor in addition to the bow anchor, and Michael took a line from the bow to the wharf to secure us. 

Charting of our two-hour anchoring adventure

Mantra at anchor in Aappilattaq

I had made chili for lunch and corn bread was in the oven. Peter dinghied over to X-Trip to thank Michael for his assistance and brought him back for lunch. He had stories to tell of polar bear encounters and advice about anchorages in Greenland and Iceland. 

He told us that the little grocery store in town closes at 3 p.m. Since it was after 2 p.m., we decided to wait until today to go to town and spent the rest of the day with usual activities. The wind continues to howl at 20-30 knots according to the instruments, but that is at the top of the mast, and our sense is that the wind is being funneled in the fjord and concentrated near sea level, so what we are experiencing on the hull is much greater. We are being continuously rocked by its force. The glaucous gulls seem to enjoy the conditions. 

Glaucous gulls flying low over the water

View from the stern

Enis has the fishing rod out from the stern every time soon after we drop anchor (just as I have my snorkel gear on and am ready to dive in the water as soon as we drop in beloved tropical climates), but there has not been any success since the three guys caught Atlantic cod, when the fish seemed just to be waiting for the lure. 

This morning's shore crew, Enis and Shalako, returned from the grocery store with just three bags of groceries. There were 4 loaves of freshly baked bread at the store, and they bought 3. There were 2 packages of tortillas; they bought 1. They did not want to wipe out the town's supply. They were also able to purchase onions, apples and a small package of grapes. We have begun to be very careful about using our provisions. 

Greenland is mostly wilderness, and this trip is becoming a wilderness experience for us. Our provisions are runny low. We have two tanks of liquid propane gas for cooking, and one is empty and the other is not full. With 400 gallon capacity tanks for water, we have only about 100 gallons left. We can no longer do laundry because of the shortage of water and also because it will not air dry in this climate, so our clothing is worn several days in a row. There is not enough water for showers. We last fully bathed 4 days ago; our previous showers were 7 days before that. Who knows when we will next be able to shower? We expect that we will have to wait until our arrival in Iceland, which is some indeterminate date in the future. 

Enis and Shalako returned from shore after grocery shopping and exploration with news that there are water spigots at various places in town which the locals use to gather water for their homes. If X Trip leaves the wharf tomorrow, we will take his place on the little wharf and do a bucket brigade with our jerry cans. 

As far as we know, there is no place to get more propane on shore, so we are now limiting our cooking and will use the microwave to heat water for tea and for making scrambled eggs and other meals as possible. 

The forecast is still not favorable for crossing to Iceland. Other cruisers that we have met here that have already crossed have reported ugly conditions, with high seas and knockdowns. We are praying for calmer conditions for our voyage there.

Did I mention that the wind is strong here?

Enis airborne

Shalako by the town's windsock

Underway to Another Anchorage

It was relatively calm when we went to shore to hike this morning around 11 a.m. There were no scree slopes and I had on proper hiking boots today (as opposed to the snow boots I wore for the last hike), so my footing was more secure. Enis has discovered wild blueberries grow here in southwest Greenland, and we stopped from time to time to pick the sweet berries, which we had to distinguish from the more abundant crowberries. There was only a sufficient amount to eat, not enough to gather. Luckily, the wind was just high enough to keep the bugs away.

Which way should we go?

Enis at the end of the almost invisible trail

Shalako, Peter and Enis

Shalako holding a crowberry and a blueberry

View from the trail

Peter lying in a comfortable bed of moss

We ran into sheer cliffs when we hiked from a small beach, so that trail was a dead end. We returned to the dinghy and motored over to another place where a river was flowing into the fjord. There was no beach so we had to put the dinghy above the water, wedged against granite boulders. The three men went off in search of a trail and I stayed near the shore to take my time admiring the biota and geology. The granite rocks had several types of crystals imbedded in them. Not being trained in geology, I could not identify them, but they were lovely to view. 

River flowing upstream with tide and wind

Embedded crystals

Other crystals

Peter, Sherri, Enis and Shalako at snack time

The men were not gone long. They made it to a place where rocks dammed up the river into a small lake but could go no further. We all sat on a single large boulder to enjoy our granola bars and apples before heading back to Mantra. 

We have not sighted any wild land animals on our hikes. Two different types of scat that we have found indicate the presence of arctic foxes, however. 

The wind had picked up and there were whitecaps on the water. Nevertheless, after lunch, we decided to move to another, probably more protected anchorage as high winds are expected for the next two days. It took 30 minutes to weigh anchor because of the density of the kelp on the chain and anchor.  

This photo of the nav chart shows how much the wind had been blowing us around 

Right now we are struggling north against a 20 knot NNE headwind with 30 knot gusts, only able to travel around 5 knots by hugging the eastern side of the fjord. We have slowed down so Shalako and Enis can tie down the dinghy more securely since it was trying to rise up from the deck. Earlier today, the cloud cover was only about 50 percent, but now is about 90. I am down below and unable to see the sky outside the port and starboard windows. Cliffs are rising up on either side of us, so from down below, the sky is only visible through the deck hatches. 

I just popped up to see the surroundings. Peter had steered into a small cove off the fjord to get a rest from the strong headwinds, but the spot is not protected enough and the bottom is too deep, so we will battle on.

View of waterfalls from the boat

Thick glacier, Illusat

Spires and peaks on other side of the fjord