Pompano Beach to West Bay of New Providence Island

I truly hate being behind on my blogging. I will do my best to capture the highlights of last few days. 

We arrived at Pompano Beach on the morning of Valentine's Day, having motored through the night with calm conditions. We were actually there too early, well before dawn (4:30 a.m.) so we hove to offshore for two and a half hours and slept. After going through Hillsboro Inlet, we passed three bascule bridges heading south on the Intracostal Waterway (ICW) and anchored in Lake Saint Barbara off the ICW before 10 a.m. in two and half meters of water. 

Our good friends Enis and Ula had arranged for us to tie up our dinghy to one of their friends' boats, which was tied up to their dock. They were both working, so we spent the day getting tasks done on the boat and then dinghied in to shore. Enis met us at the dock and then drove us to their lovely home, which they have thoroughly renovated, doing a great deal of the work themselves. They had told us that they would be out of town Sunday and Monday and we would see why when we arrived on Tuesday. The surprise was a Porsche Carrera T, Enis' dream car. They had flown to New Orleans to get it and drive back home with it. 

Ula made delicious pasta primavera for dinner and then whipped up individual chocolate lava cakes baked in ramekins and served with fruis and vanilla ice cream. Everytime Ula cooks for us, we are so spoiled.

The next day (Wednesday, Feb. 15), we borrowed Enis's mango colored Jeep and shopped for groceries and hardware for the boat. There are no Costco's in the area, but I was able to get a lot of things on my list at Trader Joe's and then went to a Walmart Supercenter to get the rest. We had to make two trips in the dinghy to ferry the 20 grocery bags and 5 flats of canned goods to Mantra. I spent most of the afternoon putting everything away in lockers and the refrigerator. 

Provisions unpacked

Everything stowed and ship-shape

Enis and Ula had offered the spare bedroom at their house, so we spent Wednesday night with them, chatting and enjoying another delicious meal. We returned to our boat after making a quick stop of Publix for a few more items for the pantry and fridge. The rest of the day, both of us were busy with various tasks. Enis and Ula had washed all of our used bed linens and towels (from the guys' trip from Rhode Island), so I made beds and put the linens not curdrently needed (such as fleece blankets!) in plastic bags and stowed them in the aft cabin. They had also cleaned the pilot house cushion covers, so I pushed and shoved the foam sections into the covers. Over time, most of the zipper pulls have fallen off or fallen apart, so I had to use pliers to close all the openings. Right now, the cushions look wonderful in the pilot house, stain-free and clean. We know it won't last. Cream with blue piping is elegant but really not practical. However, getting new cushion covers made is just not a priority.

Near sunset we returned to their home, Taking two vehicles, so that Peter could enjoy a ride in the Porsche, we drove toward the beach, parking nearby. We then strolled along the beachfront promonade and our on the pier. The lights are all low and orangish so that turtle hutchlings will not become confused making their way to water. Although green turtles make some nests on the 26-mile coast of Broward County, the majority of the turtles coming in from sea are loggerheads. The season for turtles nesting and hatching runs from March 1 to October 31. Last year there were approximately 2000 nexts, with one quarter of them located in Pompano Beach.

Ula, Enis, Peter and Sherri on the pier

The four of us enjoyed a meal out at a restaurant by the ICW before returning to their house. Enis had decided to join us for our crossing of the Gulf Stream en route to New Providence Island, so we waited for him to shower and pack. Ula drove us to the dinghy, we puttered to Mantra (because of manatees) and then all went to bed. 

Ula, Enis, Peter and Sherri dining by the ICW

Being gentlemen, Enis and Peter got up at 5 a.m on Friday, February 17, as we began the journey. I was awoken by the pounding to the bow over the waves, ka-BOOM, ka-BOOM. Had I not known better from experience, I would have thiught the boat was being taken aparat. At first I thought that dramatic up and down motion would last for only a short while as we passed thorugh the inlet, but it did not abate. Then we heeled quite a bit and I was rather trapped in the bed. Eventually, after sleeping a couple more hours, I got up. The sea a confused mess of waves up to 5 feet, some from one direction, others rolling in from a different one. Enis had already make his offering to the sea gods. We all put on scopolamine patches; even with these, Enis had to lean over the lee side one more time and I, probably spending too much time down below getting food and harnesses, felt the sudden onset of nausea and made it to the rail in time to empty what little food there was in my stomch into the waves.

Peter at the wheel as we cross the brilliant blue Gulf Stream

Although the seas remained rough until we made it across the Gulf Stream, we had no more incidences of sickness and we marvelled at the deep royal blue color all around us. We took turns napping all day. By dinner time, it was settled enough for me to cook a one-dish meal. Enis did the dishes and he and Peter went to bed while I took the first night watch. As is my custom, I agreed to remain on watch not for a designated period of time but for as long as I could, which in this case was over four and a half hours. The deal is that I do a longer watch than is typical and then am allowed to sleep until dawn. It works for me!

Orignially we had planned to stop in Albany Marina on the southwest shore to clear with Customs and Immigration, but Peter did some Internet research and was not impressed by the reviews, so we changed course and went to Lyford Cay Marina, nestled in the gated enclave of privileged, super-wealthy people. Just as we were in the fairway and turning to back in to the slip, the throttle failed. Fortunately, it was calm and Peter has excellent skills in reading the wind and current and he was able to glide Mantra in with no problem. At 1 p.m. on Saturday, Feb. 18, we docked and then waited for the Bahamian officials to arrive. They arrived within an hour, just as we were finishing lunch, and the process went smoothly. (Peter had tried to fill out the forms online prior to arrival, but the website did not cooperate.) 

Approaching Lyford Cay Marina

Channel market at entrance to Lyford Cay

Later, we launched the dinghy and went out to find a place to snorkel. The first place we dropped the dinghy anchor, Enis and I went to explore but there was nothing but karst limestone and grasses, very little animal life. We found another spot to the west and closer to shore. There were only a few coral heads of various sizes, but we were excited to see tropical fish in the wild again. (Peter joined us for this marine sight-seeing.)

Enis and Peter in the dinghy

After dinner of ravioli, we all retired for the night. This morning, we ate cereal for breakfast. Peter had to download tax documents, so Enis and I abandoned him and took the dinghy out again, this time going east of the channel markers toward some small breaking waves. It was a good spot, with shallow canyons running among the coral outcroppings. The variety of fish was greater and the colors more vivid compared to yesterday's snorkeling. Wrasses, stiking blue surgeonfish, jacks, birght red squirrelfish, sargeant majors--these were just a few of the species we encountered. 

Back at the dock, we quickly got the dinghy on the foredeck and the outboard engine in the forepeak. Enis had arranged for a taxi to the airport for his 2:00 flight home, and he helped us cast off at 11:45 as the driver waited for him. An hour and fifteen minutes later, we were anchored in the turquoise water of WEst Bay. After lunch, I put sheets in the washing machine and then hung them on the life lines to dry in the intense afternoon sun and light breeze. 

West Bay

Laundry drying in a couple hours (unlike never in Maine)

We pull up anchor at first light tomorrow and head down the Tongue of the Ocean to the Exumas. 

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