Last Days in London

Yesterday morning, after helping Peter a bit in stowing things in the aft lazarette, it was determined that I could be of no more use to him that afternoon, so I took off for one last day of culture. On my way to the Tate Modern, which I had only visited briefly once before, I wandered through Borough Market, one of the oldest in London. Markets here date back to the Middle Ages. The current structure, much of it under train tracks, was constructed in the 17th and mostly in 18th century. The market, which had been largely wholesale, had declined by the late 20th century, but it was refurbished and is now a popular destination for tourists and locals. The main entrance from the Southwark Bridge was jammed pack, so I turned around on the steps and retreated to find another entrance, which was easy enough to do. Borough Market is one of my favorites, with a plethora of food vendors offering British food, cheeses, and produce as well as international cuisine as well as breads, pastries, ice creams and other delights. For me, it was impossible to choose anything because the next turn in the winding pathways might reveal something even more tempting. In the end, I satisfied myself with free samples of chips, bread and risotto.

Borough Market

Borough Market

The streets as well as the market were thronged with tourists and locals enjoying fairly nice weather (although not a California spring), and I made my way among and around them to reach the Tate Modern, which is located in the decommissioned Bankside Power Station directly across the river from St. Paul's Cathedral. 

Horizontal sculpture and view across the Thames from the Tate Modern

Part of the museum, the Tanks, is comprised of three large, circular, underground oil tanks originally used to store fuel for the generators. Combined, they held 1.1 million gallons (5 million liters) when the power station was operational. Each tank is over 30 meters in diameter and 7 meters high. The area is now used for special exhibitions and performance art. I enjoyed seeing some of Alberto Giacometti's sculptures against the concrete and iron walls with dramatic lighting produced long shadows. 

Giacometti art on display in one of the tanks

More Giacometti works

Modern and contemporary art, which can be unusual, bold and evocative, does not impact me in the same way as classical art forms, but I like the way it often provokes thoughts about life, beauty, the universe, the state of the world. Some of it is not aesthetically appealing to me, but I am curious enough to seek it out sometimes. 

Flint rock and wall covering installation by Richard Long

Film and light installation

Work by modern Sami artist

Girl drawing on vertical orange carpet installed as participatory art

I stayed at the museum for about three hours and then walked back to the docks. On the way, on Clink Street, I passed by the ruins of the Great Hall of the Palace of the Bishops of Winchester, which Peter and I had seen in the dark a few weeks ago. According to the signage, "it made Buckingham Palace look like a shed" in medieval times. It was built in the 13th century to house the bishops when they came to London, and included large courtyards, wine cellars, a prison, a brewery, a butchery, tennis courts and a bowling alley. Because of its location in Southwark just outside the jurisdiction of the City of London, the bishops governed the area themselves, profiting from local brothels, gambling dens and theatres. The south bank of the Thames used to front the Great Hall and palace, but it is now a couple blocks away. An outstanding part of the remains is the gable wall which has a magnificent rose window. 

Ruins of the Palace of the Bishops of Winchester

Matthew had arrived for a visit by the time I got back to Mantra. After a snack for me (They had had lunch.), we set off for Guildhall, where we were entertained by an introductory performance of two pieces by a jazz choir and then astounded by a big band concert. An alumna who is gaining fame in the jazz world was a special guest on saxophone, and two of the pieces performed were her compositions, both of which were amazing. Unlike most of the other music school performances we have attended over the last month, this one did not have enough seats for the audience and had to bring out extra chairs. 

After the concert, we returned to Saint Katherine Docks and had delicious food at a Middle Eastern restaurant quite near to our boat. Afterwards, we went back to Mantra. Matthew, who will be 30 on May 30, opened some early birthday presents and we played a game of cards, which he won with a double pinochle on the deal in the last hand.

I have been doing laundry. Only one washer and one dryer at the marina are now working, so it is taking longer than usual. 

Peter has continued to organize and stow miscellaneous things. Peter's brother Rob and sister-in-law Susan came into the city in the afternoon. We walked over to Borough Market and found a wonderful restaurant called Fish, which served fresh and perfectly prepared fish as well as vegetarian food for me. It was nice to spend some time with them before we leave England.

Peter, Sherri, Susan and Rob at Borough Market

This is schedule for tomorrow afternoon at 1:50. Rain is expected, and without a bimini cover, we will get soaked. Peter insists this is what foul weather gear is for. I think foul weather gear should have to be used if you find yourself at sea in unfavorable conditions. But, it's not the tropics. This year's sailing is more about exploring culture and history in European cities and finding archipelagos for quiet anchoring. 

Belgium is our next destination.