Ameland, West Frisian Islands, the Netherlands

We pulled up anchor at 1:30 yesterday (Monday, June 1) and made our way past the island of Terschilling to reach Ameland. To leave the anchorage of Oost-Vlieland, we had to follow the marks out the channel and then head west for a few kilometers along the North Sea side before exiting the area of shifting shoals and finally turning east. We had good wind for sailing on the open water for a couple hours, and then we had to start the engine. We followed the twists and turns of the marked channel past the west end of Ameland to reach the harbor at Nes, halfway along the south side of the island. We were unable to get a response by phone or e-mail about dockage in the yacht haven, but there was plenty of space and we tied up along the first long dock. All the other boats are local, with some being old and lovingly maintained. Many have wooden leeboards. The Wadden Sea is shallow, so boats have to have short keels to be able to sail in it. 

Local recreational sailboats in the marina

After arriving at 8:30 p.m., we spent the evening on board. This morning, having the privilege of sleeping late again, we skipped breakfast on the boat and went ashore. The ferry from the mainland docks nearby, and there is a place for renting bikes of all kinds by the entrance to the ferry dock. We rented two manual bikes. The rental shops on these islands offer electric bikes, but with the flat terrain, there would seem to be no need. Four young women were renting two bicycles built for two, but we decided not to go that route. The bikes have comfortable seats and seven gears and were delightful to ride. The streets and paths are all cobbled and well-maintained. Unlike Vlieland, visitors can bring cars here, but there were very few on the roads. 

First we stopped in the village of Nes for something to eat. Rain was predicted for the afternoon, so we wanted to spend as much time exploring on wheels as possible. We bought breakfast food from a bakery and ate it on a bench outside. Then we peddled away with no real destination in mind. The residential areas are tidy and attractive, with colorful gardens. After a few blocks, we were out of the village and surrounded by open fields and meadows. 

Peter in Nes

Peter admiring pastries

When we came to a windmill, we stopped for a look. Although it was not running at the time, the Mill de Phenix is still operational and is used for grinding Ameland rye (rogg) into flour used to make traditional rye bread and to process rapeseed for oil. Mills have stood on the site since 1629. The current smock mill (a type of windmill that consists of a sloping, horizontally weatherboarded, thatched, or shingled tower, usually with six or eight sides), built in 1880, has a low brick base, is winded by tailpole and winch, and uses Common sails which are spread over a lattice framework and can be reefed. The smock and cap de Phenix are thatched, with the date of construction and a coat of arms cut into the thick dried vegetation. It is listed as a Rijksmonument (national heritage site) by the Dutch government. 

Peter at Mill de Phenix

Detail of Mill de Phenix

The date "1880" in the thatched smock of the windmill

Underneath the windmill is a shop and the refurbished and working grinding and stamp mills used for producing flour and oil from agricultural products grown on Ameland.

Nearly 200 types of birds can be seen on Ameland throughout the year. Bird song accompanied us throughout our ride through the countryside. The fields were spotted with wildflowers, and many birds could be seen. In our casual birding today, we got a new lifer, the black-tailed godwit! We also saw an abundance of common redshanks and a few northern lapwings with their babies. Many more birds we could identify by their sound but could not spot them.

Male common redshank near the village of Buren

Female common redshanks on a post with sheep on the dyke

Northern lapwing and two babies

A brief spattering of rain came as we were headed back to the village of Nes, but luckily heavier rain waited until we were safely onboard Mantra. Just a bit earlier, the rain was bouncing off the decks as the wind gusted up to 25 knots. 

Tomorrow morning we wind our way out through the channels to the North Sea and head for the island of Borkum across the border in Germany.