Moving along at a Slow Pace on the Göta Canal

We went into flight of seven locks in Berg that lead to Lake Roxen at 9:45 a.m. This should be routine for us now, but Peter tried to kill me at the first lock. I had jumped to shore with the stern and bow lines and was walking forward to the place they had to be secured before the lock could begin to release water in the first stage of the descent. However, Peter was more focused on steering the boat and did not release the  lines to run free as I was going down the incline to the level that the water would be when the gate opened. I was violently yanked to the ground as I tried to keep hold of both lines. Fortunately, the shore was not lined with tourists. He claimed he lost track of all the things he had to do on board, but I suspect homicidal intent. Or perhaps the young, fair-haired lock attendant had distracted his attention.

Peter on deck in a lock

Nevertheless, without further accidents or injuries, we made it through the flight of locks, named Carl Johan in honor of King Charles XIV John, who visited the construction site with his son Oscar and laid down two foundation stones. The double lock just before the marina is named for Oscar.

We were down to Lake Roxen in about 25 minutes. The wind was insufficient for sailing, but we motored along happily, enjoying the stunning views.

View of reed lined shores and forest

We had almost made it to the east side of lake when I suggested that we should stop the boat somewhere and swim. We had passed a couple of islands already, so we made a u-turn and headed back there. We anchored near the mainland actually. We had started out the day dressed warmly with fleece jackets and long pants, but the bright sunshine had heated up the air. With our swimsuits on, we dove in after putting down the swim ladder, which hadn't been in the water since the fjords of Greenland. Peter swam all the way to the shore, but I found I could touch bottom not far behind the stern of our boat and walked most of the way. We examined the granite with its long cracks and inclusions and sparkling bits of feldspar and then returned to the boat, walking as far as was possible through the water. 

View from the stern of the boat at anchor. The rocks under water are almost visible.

Peter diving in

Sherri walking back to the stern

We showered on the swim platform, dressed in dry clothes and had lunch. By 2:30 p.m, the weather, which was variable all day, had changed. The bright blue sky with a few dazzling white cumulus clouds was replaced by nimbus clouds and a chilly breeze. We had barely pulled up anchor before rain began to fall. From swimsuits to foul weather jackets in little over an hour. Throughout the day, we added layers and took off layers many times according to the whims of the weather.

Sherri holding the boat in the lock, with the year the lock was completed engraved near the top

Canal view of fields and forests

Wildflowers by the canal

Back in the dug canal after the beautiful lake, we continued to admire the scenery. We passed by the town of Norsholm and entered a much smaller lake, Asplangen. Then we were back in the canal, where we observed dozen of sheep. The canal company owns approximately 300 sheep, and we have encountered them in other places too along the car-free parts of the towpaths. These sheep graze there, helping to keep the vegetation under control.

Grazing sheep

Another thing often seen are the ell stones. These historic monuments are the remains of an old compensation system. The stones, 143 in all, were placed along the canal between the lakes, spaced 594 meters apart (or 1,000 Swedish ells. Compensation for the drivers of draft animals that towed the boats was calculated by recording the number of stones that were passed.

Ell stone 17

We were planning to make it to Söderköping today, but we were told at the Klämman lock that we had to make it to the second bridge after the lock  by 5:40 p.m. because it would not open after that time because transit through the next series of locks could not be accomplished before the end of the locking today. We arrived at 5:43! Now we are tied up to the waiting dock until the morning. It is a pleasant evening and no other boats are here, so it is peaceful. Peter is working on repairing lines while I take care of chores below.

We expect to be in the Baltic Sea tomorrow.