The Browns' Mantra: Exploring Oxford Some More

The skies continue to be overcast and there has been light drizzle throughout the day. Heavy rain, up to 2 inches, is expected during the night and will continue through the weekend. The wind gust forecast is now 30 knots, and boats traveling on the Chesapeake Bay are seeking shelter. A few have arrived on the docks here today.

Mantra on the dock under gray skies at Oxford Boatyard

Leaving Peter to work on Mantra, I set out for a walk around Oxford. Today, the Oxford Museum was open. (Like the library, it is staffed by volunteers, so only opens four days a week.) Although small, it presents all types of artifacts and great narratives on the history of this small town. For your enjoyment (and my memory), I will provide a bit of information about Oxford, which is listed on the National Registry of Historic Places.

Oxford Museum in the center of town

Located on the eastern shore of the Chesapeake Bay, Oxford has been inhabited by European settlers since around 1660. Of course, the area was the home of indigenous people of the Choptank tribe for centuries before this. Tobacco was the staple of the early colonists' economy; the first recorded sale (of 1500 barrels) was recorded in 1669. The Maryland General Assembly designated Oxford a seaport in 1683, and the plan for the town was laid out and lots were sold in 1684. In 1694, Oxford and Annapolis (then Anne Arundel) were designated as the only ports of entry for Maryland. By then, the town was surrounded by wealth-generating tobacco plantations and soon developed as an international shipping destination.

There were many free Blacks in early Oxford, but there is also documentation of ships unloading enslaved people from Senegal to this port in the 1770's. However, many probably arrived before then as slavery on the plantations was essential to the agrarian economy.

Between the end of the American Revolution and the end of the Civil War, Oxford suffered from trade loss, business bankruptcies and a severe decrease in population as maritime trade all but ceased and wheat replaced tobacco as the major crop. By 1783, the population was 98 and cattle could be found grazing in the streets. In the 1870's, a new railroad line to the town as well as improved methods of canning and packing opened national markets for oysters from the Chesapeake, and Oxford revived with houses being built and businesses being established at a rapid pace. Tourists from major east coast cities traveled by rail or ship to enjoy a break from urban life. The population grew to over 1200. However, by the 1920's, the oyster beds had been exhausted, the packing houses closed, and bankruptcy again became common. By 1940, the population was 846, consisting mostly of remaining watermen and their families.

Mural of watermen on the side of the grocery store

Boatbuilding has been a continuing industry in Oxford since the 1600's, but the emphasis shifted from working boats to recreational craft in the 1920's. In 1931, 124 boats, captained and crewed by watermen, competed in the first sailing race, and the first sailing club was established. During the Depression and WWII, recreational sailing was minimal, but in the 1950's, tourism and leisure activities again became a central part of Oxford's culture and economy.

Unique red tin clad building constructed in 1894 as the Oddfellows Hall for African Americans

For much of its history, Oxford's population was mixed race, with African Americans respresenting about half the population. Then gentrification occurred. Oxford's old houses became weekend vacation homes for wealthy people from the Washington, DC, area. The COVID-19 pandemic allowed many of these to become full-time residents because of virtual work. The population in 2020 was 651. Over 90% of the population is White/Caucasian and less than 1% is African American. It is a town for wealthy white retirees; the median age is 61, and only 10% of the 300+ households have children under the age of 18.

The pace of life is slow. People obviously lavish attention on their gardens and the fine details of their homes (or hire someone to do so). Everyone to whom I have spoken (and everyone in the shops and on the street seems to have plenty of time to talk) has been friendly and eager to share information about their town. I like it here, but I do not think I could move to a place with such a lack of multiculturalism.

More historic houses in Oxford

Hundreds of pink tulips in front of gorgeous home

Azaleas, pansies and other flowers found in many front gardens

Irises, another popular choice

Before returning to the boat, I stopped in the town's new and used book store, where the proprietor was happy to talk to me about her hometown. People are worried that the imminent storm will result in great petal loss in their spring gardens. She assured me that gardening is taken seriously here, sometimes taken to the level of competitive sport.

Meanwhile, back at the boat, Peter works and works. Today he is re-routing water lines, doing something with electricity (that represents the extent of my understanding), and installing an electric flushing mechanism on the toilet. (For those of you have been on board in the past, if you return, you will no longer need to pump!) After preparing him a nutritious, warm and attractive lunch, I had to leave. Not only are there tools everywhere, but he was getting ready to take up the floorboards to access lines. There has been limited availability of places to sit; now, moving about the saloon and cabins is a challenge. I am sitting in the marina's clubhouse, where it is warm and cozy. It's about 60 degrees outside, which means that it's about 60 degrees down below on Mantra. I have suggested that it may soon be time to get out the space heater. The temperature is going to be in the mid-40's the next three nights! I have already made use of the hot water bottle at bedtime.