Detour to Beaufort, North Carolina, on the way to the Chesapeake

On Thursday, May 11, we pulled up anchor in Winyah Bay before sunrise, at 6:15 a.m. The wind was 15 knots from the east, but once we were out on the open water, it dropped to 10-12 and clocked to the southeast, remaining steady throughout the day. We sailed on a starboard tack, close-hauled, at around 7 knots speed over ground for hours and hours, heeled over significantly. The 2-3 foot waves were closely spaced, so the ride was bumpy, but we were happy to be making good headway.

The stove is gimballed so that it is level even when the boat is not

Waves drenching the windows on the port side

Around 7 p.m, we turned on the engine to head almost directly south into wind to navigate around Frying Pan Shoals. This took 3 hours. Around 10 p.m., we turned the engine off, relishing the lack of noise, and resumed on ESE course along the Carolina coastline. With many miles to travel on the same tack, Peter went to bed after we were sailing again, and I took the first night time watch. The sun set in an orange lit sky, and I used a small light to do crossword puzzles and read from time to time, always aware of the angle to the wind and wind speed, the sound of the wind in the sails (which indicates if the wind has changed), the direction of the boat, the depth and other factors, adjusting course as necessary to maintain the angle to the wind and speed. The sun set, the waning quarter moon rose, the stars appeared, the instruments provided me with information. And so it went until 5 a.m., when the sky gradually began to lighten in the east and the wind changed to southwest and dropped to less than 8 knots, forcing me to turn the engine on. Off course, this awakened Peter, and after he was assured that everything was under control, obeyed my command to go back to bed until 7 a.m. The sunrise was nice, heralding another long day--and night--of sailing. (These photos are not in order, and I don't care to deal with it.)

Beginning of daylight, 5:30 a.m.

Sunrise, 6:10 a.m.

Sunset yesterday, 8:00 p.m.

Moonlight on water, 4:30 a.m.

The instruments in the pilot house

Peter was concerned that a front was going to make it impossible to get into the Chesapeake before squalls set in, but he was able to talk with Chris Parker, the weather guru, on the single sideband radio, and was reassured we could arrive in time to find a safe anchorage. And so, it was full speed ahead with the engine! That is, until Peter noticed that the engine was not developing full power. He went down into the engine room and put some stuff somewhere in order to clean the injectors, but this did not help. He listened to the turbo charger as I increased the revs while in neutral until noxious white smoke was pouring out from the exhaust at the stern (at which point I went back to idle), and he thought that the turbo charger might not be spinning properly. In any case, we decided that since there were no quick fixes, we had to change our plans. Going around Cape Hatteras without a dependable engine would not be wise, so we altered course and headed to Beaufort (Bo-fert), North Carolina. One of the marinas has a full-service yard and is a dealer for Yanmar engines, but they would not be able to work on the engine for over a week. However, they gave Peter the names of a couple local mechanics who could come to a different location, the Beaufort Docks on the historic waterfront where we are now situated. 

Actually, this made me happy for several reasons. First, we can sleep together in our bed this evening in flat calm water--no second night of watch! Secondly, Town Creek Marina (and yard) is not near to the heart of the historic district or anything at all, really, so I wasn't disappointed that we could not get in there. 

As we approached the entrance to the channel, Peter noticed dark birds skimming over the waves, dipping their feet in the water. He was able to identify them as Wilson's storm petrels.

So now we are at Beaufort Docks. The two dock hands were perhaps the most efficient pair we have ever had help us tie up. I checked in at the office, and then we had a quick lunch on board. I spent about three hours exploring the town and going to the Beaufort Historical Association Visitor's Center and the Cape Lookout National Seashore Visitor's Center, where I enjoyed talking with volunteers about the area. 

The town of Beaufort, the third oldest town in North Carolina, was colonized by the English in 1709. Prior to that, the area was inhabited by the Coree Indians and later French Huguenots. The town was laid out in 1713 by Robert Turner, the holder of the original land grant, and named in honor of his friend, Henry Somerset, Duke of Beaufort. It was incorporated in 1722. By the late 1700s it was an active seaport inhabited by sailors, privates, privateers, fishermen, soldiers and planters. Still standing are over 100 homes from the 19th century as well as several private residences over 200 years old. The houses range from traditional cottages to elaborate Queen Anne and Greek Revival styles. The predominant feature of all of them are the deep porches; some houses have porches both the first and second stories. Around some of the houses are unusual picket fences with an up and down pattern created by pickets of different lengths. They may have a connection to an early law stating that pigs had to be kept in the yards. Pigs found outside of the fences could be slaughtered by the finder, although half of the meat had to be given to the church wardens to feed the hungry.

Parterre garden behind the John Manson House, 1825

Large home on Front Street

Queen Anne style house

Potter House, 1903

Beautiful garden

Dr. James Manney House, 1812

It is getting late. Peter has been working on solving the engine problem himself; no mechanics are available until next Thursday at the earliest. We are both hungry and must soon find a restaurant for a decent meal.