The Baltic Sea; Ystad, Sweden; Dragør, Denmark; and Copenhagen

After a great first day of sailing from Kuressaare, Estonia, averaging 8 to 9 knots under sail (95 nautical miles in less than 12 hours), the wind died on us, and we were forced to motor-sail the rest of the way west across the Baltic Sea. Two day, two and half hours after leaving Estonia, with Peter, constantly alert for strange sounds, changed the fuel filter, we docked at Ystad, Sweden, at 10:30 a.m on Wednedsay, August 26. We spent the rest of the day there before continuing toward Denmark.

Ready to get off the boat, we set off to explore the small city, the old part of which is right by the docks. Our first stop as we walked along the cobblestone streets was Sankta Maria Kyrka, which was first built in the 14th century. Originally constructed in the Romanesque style, it was expanded around 1275 in the Brick Gothic style, but a single mural-decorated vault is all that remains. During the 1300s and 1400s it was rebuilt and the current structure consists mostly of these reconstructions. 

The walls and vaulted ceilings of this Lutheran church are simple in design and decoration, but the main altar is Baroque, with numerous carvings, colors and gilt-covered surfaces. There is an intricately carved side altar which was built in Germany in the 15th century. Two medieval crucifixes are prominent features; the one hanging above the entrance to the high altar is adorned with real human hair.

High altar and crucifix with human hair

High altar, Sankta Maria Kyrka

Detail of German-carved side altar

Exterior of Sankta Maria Kyrka

The organ was being played while we were in the church, and we sat and enjoyed the rich sounds for a while. Afterwards, we went in search of a place for lunch. We continued to walk through the historic Old Town, admiring the medieval architecture and squares and the 16th and 17th century half-timbered houses. Groups of these buildings were built around shared central courtyards, and we found a great place for a meal at one of these. 

Main square

Half-timbered buildings from a courtyard

Peter at a restaurant in a courtyard

Sated, we took other streets back to the marina, viewing the 13th century Greyfriars Abbey and the more recently constructed lake and fountain across the street from it. The museum was closed for the day, so we continued on, finding other visually fascinating buildings of brick and timbers. One large building had particularly distinctive carvings above the windows. 

Garden and half-timbered houses

Greyfriars' Abbey

Lake and half-timbered house

Half-timbered building with Sankta Maria Kyrka in the distance

Details of half-timbered structure

The next morning (Thursday, August 27), we were awake before dawn and cast off from the dock before 7 a.m. It was calm in the harbor, but large and frequent swells made sailing uncomfortable in the open sea. Going downwind, sailing wing-and-wing, we averaged just under 6 knots of speed. Fortunately, the swells decreased some en route, and we tied up longside to the wall of the old harbor in Dragør, Denmark, at 3:45 p.m. As we were bringing gear below and settling in before taking off to explore, the police came by just to check our passports. They were quite friendly and welcoming.

Ystad marina just after sunrise

First we walked along the waterfront looking for the harbormaster's office. On the way, we passed an open building, a former shipbuilding shop, where artwork, mostly paintings, was on display and for sale. Local artists are allowed to us the leaky building for studio and exhibition space until the city determines another purpose for it. Nearby was the harbormaster's building, where we paid for the docking at an automated kiosk.

Local art for sale

The small city was lovely in the late afternoon light. We did not find any restaurants that appealed to us, so we walked back to the waterfront and had a very good meal at the sail club's restaurant.

Lovely golden houses

Town square

Cobblestone alley

We geared up in full foulies before casting off. Leaving the dock this morning was quite a challenge. A 20-knot south wind was driving us directly unto the wall. We tried pushing off with our feet at the beam unsuccessfully, then attempted to get the bow away from the wall pushing off with an extendable boat hook. but this also failed. Finally, Peter unlashed the ice pole from the port deck and he spent several minutes pushing with it. I was at the wheel. As soon as he had pushed as far as he could, it was full speed ahead and hard to starboard to the narrow opening of the harbor, where the current was flowing in. Casting off the stern line, Peter took the wheel while I held a walking fender, which we fortunately did not need. At 10 a.m., we were free, and we only lost one fender, which was ripped off against the dock.

Peter starting to push the bow away from the dock with the ice pole

The wind was not favorable for sailing, so we motored the 12 nautical miles to the Wilders Plads Marina in Copenhagen. This was also a new experience, moving slowly between docked boats on either side of the Wilders Canal and turning right angles before slipping in lengthwise to the wall between boats at noon. It started raining hard just after we got the lines fixed, so we have spent the last couple hours on board. I have prepared a lot of meals and taken a shower. Now it's time to see Copenhagen!

Wilders Canal