Sunday, June 19, 2022

Oyster Bay

We just pulled up anchor in Oyster Bay a couple hours ago, having spent two nights there, and are now sailing to Port Jefferson Harbor. The wind is 16-18 knots and the seas about 1 foot, and we are enjoying fast speed on a beam reach, smooth enough to allow me to be down below online. The northwest wind is nippy, and it is better to sheltered from the chill down here.

We arrived in Oyster Bay in the early afternoon of Friday, June 17. It was a bright and sunny day and the seas were flat. Peter took Robert and Susan to shore in the dinghy to explore the village, which Peter and I had visited before, and I did laundry and Peter did some work on the boat while they were gone. Peter retrieved them around 5:30, and the four of us all went to shore about 7. We strolled through Theodore Roosevelt Memorial Park, which is restricted to Oyster Bay residents, so we were trespassing. The beachfront park is lovely and has tennis courts and soccer fields and playgrounds. Particularly on the weekends, it would be mobbed if just anybody were allowed access, so the exclusivity seems practical but also somehow a bit elitist. 

In the village, we had dinner at It Pizza and Bagel, ordering pizzas, salads and sandwiches. Eating outside, we could hear live rock and roll music from a nearby restaurant. Having finished our meal, we walked down a dead-end alley to check out the scene. After bobbing to a couple of songs from our era (the 70s and 80s), we decided to enter the establishment from the street and order drinks. It was a lively place filled with locals, many of them friends or family of the band, Last Call. The eight member group did wonderfully executed covers of hits by the Rolling Stones, America, Tom Petty, the Allman Brothers Band, Linda Rondstat and others, and people were dancing to every song, even Susan, Peter and me. The female lead singer's voice was astounding.

Last Call band

The town is not particularly welcoming to anchored boats and offers no free dinghy docks, so we had tied up on a dock at the far end of Theodore Roosevelt Memorial Park even though there was a sign indicating a 30 minute limit. I believe that this admonishment is directed to boats and trailers using the ramps beside the two docks so that others can get launched. Nevertheless, we had a bit of concern about our dinghy. However, it was still securely tied up and there were no citations.

The next morning, despite the late (for us) night of partying, we arose early. There was a desperate need to pump out the holding tank, so Peter ran Susan, Rob and me to shore around 9 o'clock and he returned to Mantra to hail the pump out boat. The three of us walked up from the village to Planting Fields Arboretum State Historic Park, the former 400 acre estate of William Robertson Coe, an insurance and railroad executive, and his wife Mai Rogers Coe, the youngest daughter of millionaire industrialist Henry H. Rogers, who had been a prinicpal of Standard Oil. It includes the 67-room Coe Hall, greenhouses, gardens, wooded paths and outstanding plant collections. Much of the landscape design was done by the Olmsted Brothers. The Coe's interest in rare species of trees and plant collections made the estate a botanical marvel. The estate was deeded to the State of New York in 1949 and is wonderfully maintained.

Coe House

Italian Garden

Tea House by Italian Garden
Blushing bromeliad in the Main Greenhouse

Urn plant, Main Greenhouse

Crimson cattleya, Main Greenhouse

Tropical room in the Main Greenhouse

Clamshell orchid, Main Greenhouse

We could have spent hours at Planting Fields, but we had arranged to meet Peter at 11:00 in the village at 20th Century Cycles, the shop and garage of singer Billy Joel's collection of classic motorcycles. Billy Joel himself, a local resident, was just leaving as we arrived, and Peter was thankful I did not have the opportunity to ask for a photo with him. We were entertained and informed by Scott, the weekend host. The establishment, open for free and not a museum (in order to avoid regulations), is basically Billy Joel's garage for over 75 motorcycles and a couple vintage cars. Only open for five hours on Saturdays and Sundays, the shop is where the full-time mechanic works Monday through Friday. 

Peter,  Sherri, Susan and Rob at 20th Century Cycle

Afterwards, we enjoyed lunch al fresco nextdoor at Sweet Tomato before calling for a ride share to Sagamore Hill National Historic Site. Sagamore Hill was the home of President Theodore Roosevelt and his family from 1885 until his death in 1919. It was the "Summer White House" during his tenure from 1901 to 1909. Located on Cove Neck with Oyster Bay to the west and Cold Springs Harbor to the east, 25 miles over land from Manhattan, the 155 acres of land was purchased by 22-year-old Roosevelt in 1880. 

Sagamore Hill

At 1 p.m., we took a tour with a park ranger of the inside of the house and learned many fascinating facts about Roosevelt as well as the building. The house is filled with books, trophies from his hunting trips in the the western United States and Africa, gifts from foreign dignitaries, and art as well as the original furnishings, looking as it did during his life. 

Library, Sagamore Hill
Edith Roosevelt's sitting room, Sagamore Hill

Sagamore Hill Dining Room
North Room, added during Roosevelt's Presidency
Girls' Room at Sagamore Hill
Boys' room, Sagamore Hill
Master bedroom at Sagamore Hill

After the house tour, we visited the museum located in the home constructed a short distance away by his eldest son when he married and started a family. It showcased Roosevelt's youth, his early political career, his years as President, and his adventures after leaving office. Then we walked down the hill to the marshes and beach along Cold Springs Harbor, a place where his family and guests enjoyed swimming and boating.

The bright, warm weather of the early morning had turned cloudy and blustery by the time we reached the dinghy which we had paid to tie up at Oyster Bay Marine Center. It was impossible not to get wet crossing back to Mantra. Luckily, we all had rain jackets, but spray blew in our faces and waves splashed across the gunnels, soaking our legs and bottoms. The wind was howling at 20 knots with gusts of at least 30 all evening and into the night. 

Sunset, Oyster Bay

While I made dinner, Peter attempted (unsuccessfully) a repair to the generator. It had been a very busy day, so we all went to bed early, having closed some of the durade vents and pulled up extra blankets for warmth. 

This morning we set off about 10 a.m. under sunny skies, and we expect to reach Port Jefferson around 2:30 p.m. We may pick up a mooring ball and take advantage of the launch service included in the fee, avoiding launching our own dinghy. 

Peter and Rob sailing on Long Island Sound

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